kuwait, more than an oil-rich country

Four years ago, I had the chance to visit this beautiful country. It had plenty of surprises in store for me: a striking desert landscape, sandstorms, a bustling cosmopolitan city, welcoming people and a rich musical culture shaped by influences from India and East Africa. My trip even led to an appearance on Marina FM 88.8.

Belly dance is rarely performed there, even at private events, and still less in public. Other styles, such as khaleeji, have more of a presence. Khaleeji, the dance traditions of the Gulf, is usually performed at private parties known as haflas, in people's homes, and on special occasions such as Kuwait's National Day on 25 February, when celebrations feature a wide variety of music and dance.

A little background helps put the journey in context.

Kuwait lies in Western Asia. During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, it was a thriving trading hub for goods travelling between India and the Middle East.

After the First World War, Kuwait emerged as an independent emirate under British protection. A war with Saudi Arabia, which claimed many lives, was followed by a trade blockade. After the blockade ended, the first oil wells were discovered on Kuwaiti territory.

Sharing a meal during my visit to Kuwait

Hospitality is an important part of everyday life, often expressed through an offer of tea or coffee. Invitations to share a meal are common, too. Food plays a central role in the culture, and meals are often prepared in generous quantities. A traditional dish is machboos: rice served with fish or meat, such as chicken or lamb. Another speciality is red lentil soup, which I found was often served in a hollowed-out round loaf of bread.

In Kuwait, I discovered the diwaniah, a social institution that struck me as a distinctive feature of Kuwaiti culture, unlike anything I had encountered elsewhere in the Gulf.

Diwaniahs are gathering places for men. During my visit, I found that these meetings could take place at almost any hour, on one or several days a week. Some diwaniahs stay open for most of the day, allowing men to drop in and discuss anything from politics and society to economics, whether local or international. Women are not admitted to these men's gatherings. The host usually offers tea or snacks, and many diwaniahs have staff to look after visitors.

Some business owners and members of parliament advertise their diwaniahs in newspapers so that members of the public can attend.
There are also some women-only diwaniahs, although information about them is scarce, leading some people to believe they do not exist. During my stay, I tried every avenue I could to find one. I never did, but that does not mean they are not there. Perhaps they keep a low profile to protect themselves from unwanted attention and those who oppose them.

Music was one of the reasons I wanted to visit Kuwait. I was eager to explore unfamiliar styles and experience the country's cultural expressions first-hand.

Kuwait's musical heritage was well documented until the Gulf War, when the Iraqi army destroyed the archive.

Despite this loss, Kuwait maintained an active music industry, both before and after the invasion.

Its music reflects the varied influences that have shaped Kuwaiti culture, including those of East Africa and India.
I chose to explore sawt, a deeply rooted and well-established musical tradition. Khaleeji music is also widely enjoyed, produced and valued here, but as it is better known, I wanted to look into another tradition that remains very much alive.

Sawt literally means “voice”; the word was traditionally also used to mean “song” in the Arab world.
It is the name of a Kuwaiti musical genre that developed in the nineteenth century and is regarded as Kuwait's classical music, traditionally associated with educated circles.

The music follows a repeating verse structure: the rhythmic pattern stays the same while the lyrics change. What sets sawt apart is its focus on the oud, the Arabic lute, whereas other Gulf styles place greater emphasis on percussion.
Sawt is also a highly personal art, as the singer often plays the oud as well. At first, its repetition might seem monotonous, but the steady musical framework, the poetry of the lyrics and the singer's artistry combine to create something deeply moving.
Abdullah Al Ruwaished and Nabil Shuail are among the best-known artists associated with sawt. Their music also incorporates influences from techno and European pop.

Here are a few examples to listen to and watch.

In this sawt performance, the other men accompany the singer with rhythmic clapping and drums.

A video from YouTubeSawt from Kuwait: ‘Salem ya Salem’

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There are many other traditions of music and dance to discover.

Al Fareesa was performed by women dressed as men during certain national and religious celebrations. The dance stages a battle between a mounted warrior and two attackers.

Other traditional dances include ardah, a sword dance accompanied by drums and tambourines, and women's dances such as khamari, tanboura, fraisah, zifan and samiri, as well as badawi, a dance tradition associated with the desert.

During my visit, I also learned about a community described to me as badawi, said to make up around five per cent of Kuwait's population. Although native to Kuwait, they were described as stateless, facing exclusion and being denied access to many official documents.

Returning to dance, badawi refers to traditions rooted in a nomadic or semi-nomadic way of life.

One dance performed by women expresses pride, confidence and a competitive spirit, both between large families or tribes and among the dancers themselves.

Badawi can offer a young woman a chance to present herself as a potential bride.
Performing it well takes considerable energy, and long hair is a prized feature of the dance.
Through different hand gestures, dancers can signal whether or not they are open to marriage. There are also forms of badawi performed by men, which I did not have the chance to see.

Badawi performed by women.

A video from YouTubeThe Fifth Wall operetta (Love of Kuwait)

This longer video offers a glimpse of Kuwait's traditional dances: a fascinating journey through its folk heritage, distinctive rhythms and rich culture.

A video from YouTubeSaudi music at the Kuwait Opera House

For something more contemporary, I recommend the duo Sons of Yusuf. These brothers are leading voices in Kuwait's hip-hop scene, skilfully blending their Arab roots with modern, international sounds.

A video from YouTubeSons of Yusuf - Born To Rise (Official Asian Youth Paralympics 2025 Dubai) prod. by Samaca

Finally, I would like to share my appearance on the radio. I called to request a song by Hussain Al Jassmi, and later received an invitation to the recording studio to record some demos. It was great fun and a completely new experience for me, with the added challenge of having to speak Arabic—in the Kuwaiti dialect!

A video from YouTubeMarina FM Diwaniah Veronica Pavon